THE UNDERCOVER FOOD CRITIC
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Bulrush

Bristol
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Two little amuse-bouche’s to get us started. At my nine to one o’clock we have two fried wild rabbit and tarragon croquettes. These were scrummy and even my dad who hates food enjoyed them! Below we have - duck liver and pink peppercorn macaroon, which were sweet and rich with flavour. I LOVE LIVER. Could I have some more please.
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Ohhhh what a plate! I can’t remember for the life of me what these were to be honest. But, once again what a stunning plate!
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Step back and take a bow @bulrushrestaurant this dish was something else! I’ve eaten a lot of edible flowers in my time and divulged in various spectacularly presented dishes. However, this was something else, no modern theatre just some delicate crab lightly cooked in a tulip flower served with green tea. It reminded me of a shu mai, which is a Chinese dumpling stuffed full of goodness. Stunning presentation and stunning tastes! LIT, LIT and LIT.
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Quack, quack! Duck breast and a duck kebab made from gizzard and heart. Let me tell you about one of my experiences with duck. I was once sent to Bordeaux to learn French with my French family; p.s that really didn’t go well. Anyway, one day residing in Chateaux Mallard we decided we wanted some mallard for lunch (lol) and no, we didn’t go to the supermarket we went to my aunts small lake and captured one of the ducks. Let me walk you through why this experience was eye opening by listing what we did with the duck. 1) We had a blood pancake made by slitting the neck of duck and frying the oozing blood and voila we have a blood pancake. 2) We ate the duck cooked from the vines from the vineyard outside of the window with foie gras. 3) I had gizzard and really didn’t enjoy its meaty marzipan texture whatsoever 4) Well let’s say my cousins eat everything and somehow I was roped into consuming the ducks brain...never again! Just one of my experiences with duck.
I finally got myself to Bulrush in Bristol and what an experience it was! I’ve been to many restaurants in the UK and across the world and often they throw out dishes to challenge your taste buds. However, nine times out of ten they simply don’t work. Yet, the meal I had at Bulrush was a breath of fresh air and pretty much every dish they threw my way was unique and perfectly balanced. Also, £50 for the tasting menu was great value.
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Here we have a beetroot tartar with a coal purée, walnut, crab apple and edible flowers. The beetroot was dehydrated and thus, was extremely light and delicate in the mouth. This was ideal for a tasting menu and the plate was topped off with some horseradish snow to cut through the sweet beetroot. Truly delicious!
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Pork, seseame purée and greengages. A greengage is a European plum that is significantly more tart than the commonly eaten Victoria plum.
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Mushroom ice cream with chocolate?! Say whaaaaaat. We all looked at each other slightly bamboozled as we had no idea how this was going to taste. I assumed that this was just pushing the boat out too far. However, I can solemnly say that it bloody worked! Eating the chocolate with the mushroom provided a deep earthy caramel toffee taste, which was head scratchingly good.
Text and photographs by The Undercover Food Critic, 3rd March, 2018. More Information: @the_undercover_food_critic
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  • Food Reviews
    • United Kingdom >
      • London >
        • Trullo
        • Céleste
        • CLAW
        • Mercato Metropolitano
        • Coal Office
        • Chin Chin Lab
        • Maltby Street Market
        • The Frog Restaurant
        • Temper - Covent Garden
        • Smoke & Salt
        • Hide
        • Berber & Q
        • Nuala London
        • The Prince London
        • Donostia Restaurant
        • Aquavit London
        • Clipstone Restaurant
        • Zuma London
        • Yauatcha City
        • Luca
        • Temper - Soho
      • Bath >
        • Menu Gordon Jones
        • Henry's
        • De Gustibus
        • The Cosy Club
        • Thoughtful Bakery
        • Olive Tree
        • The Scallop Shell
      • Cornwall >
        • Pengelly's Fishmongers
        • Roly's Fudge
        • Fitzroy
        • Porthpean Beach
        • Harbour Q
      • Rest of the UK >
        • The Hundred of Ashendon
        • Vaults and Garden - Oxford
        • Bulrush - Bristol
        • The Feathered Nest Inn - Cotswolds
        • The Waterside Inn - Bray
        • The Covered Market - Oxford
        • The Cross - Kenilworth
    • USA >
      • New York City >
        • The Timeout Market
        • Au Cheval
        • Los Tacos No.1
        • Rockys Pizzeria
        • Ninth Avenue Diner
        • Chelsea Market
        • Joe's Pizza
        • Around The City
      • Toms River >
        • Sundaes - The Ice Cream Place
        • The Sandcastle Diner
    • Singapore
    • Thailand >
      • Islands
      • Bangkok >
        • Khlong Toei Market
        • Pad Thai Mae Am
        • Jokphochana Restaurant
    • France >
      • Paris >
        • Restaurant AT
        • Marché couvert les Enfants Rouges
        • Café Kitsune
        • Maison Sauvage
        • Mamie Restaurants
        • Il Tre
        • Chateau de Fountainbleu
        • Benedict
        • Pastry in Paris
      • Bordeaux
    • Italy >
      • Modena >
        • Osteria Francescana
      • Bologna
    • Spain >
      • Barcelona >
        • NoBook - Barcelona
        • Mercado De La Boqueria
    • Belgium >
      • Bruges
    • Morocco >
      • Marrakech >
        • Royal Mansour Marrakech
        • Jemaa El-Fnaa
        • Nomad Restaurant
        • Le Jardin
        • Limoni Marrakech
        • Naranj Marrakech
      • Atlas Mountains
    • Netherlands >
      • Amsterdam >
        • Pastries and Cheese
        • Haesje Claes
        • Foodhallen
        • Fiko
        • De Vier Pilaren
        • Tony's Chogolonely
        • Vlaams Friteshuis Vleminckx
        • Febo
        • Bloemenmarkt
  • Recipes
    • Bloody Brownies
    • Apple & Cinnamon Jam
    • Rhubarb & Ginger Jam
    • Strawberry & Mint Jam
    • Pork Dumplings
    • Brandied Cherries
    • Grilled Courgette with Feta Cheese
    • Poached Pear
    • Crumpet with Brown Shrimp
  • Shop
  • About Me
  • Contact