THE UNDERCOVER FOOD CRITIC
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Restaurant At

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So here we are at a restaurant I’ve been hoping to eat at for over a year now. Having read that head chef ‘Atsushi Tanaka - @atsushitanaka360’ was described as the Picasso of the kitchen I was excited. Not only this, he has trained in contrasting kitchens from all over the world, which has lead to a mystical dining experience being created from Japanese, Nordic and French cuisine. For those that don’t know me I love monochrome colours, minimal techno and crazy art. Walking into @restaurant_at I was greeted by all three of these!! This restaurant almost perfectly captured exactly how I’d want my dream restaurant to be.
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Before you go ‘how bloody small is this dish’ let me say it was one of about ten OK!! Here we have a leek with brown butter. If only this three centimetre leek was ten.
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Shallot, caper and lots of moss fresh off the roof.
The wine list at restaurant @restaurant_at is extensive and full of character building bio dynamic wines. On the suggestion of the sommelier we opted for the Dinavolo. It is an orange wine from the Emilia in Italy. The blooming orange colour is produced as the wine endures skin contact for six months. It particularly reminded me of a dry cider and I’d certainly recommend giving it a try if you want to try something challenging, which will take you a while to drink and appreciate.
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Scallop x Yuzu
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Lobster x Tonka Bean served in a vortex.
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Nothing like a slab of concrete for dinner. @atsushitanaka360 is genuinely a genius. Normally when I eat foie gras I have it with something crunchy like a cracker and something sweet like fig or onion jam. This dish may looks perculiar, but it is in fact just a modern take on how I’d usually eat foie gras. The crunchy-sweet meringue worked incredibly well with the foie, and the long pepper with orange date hiding under the concrete brought the dish to life by cutting through the richness. Wow and powwow!
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Banka Trout, Juniper and Parsley UFO. Literally out of this world.
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Venison with beetroot ravioli. Hold on though look at the glaze on the gravy.
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Blueberry Bubble Cake
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HINOKI WOOD DESSERT... say what? A desert made from a prized Japanese tree that has a highly floral sour taste. This was probably the most unusual thing I’ve ever tasted and I loved it. I want to go back...
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Quince and Sage - what an amazing meal and truly something I’ll never forget. If your planning to go to Paris soon then this is a restaurant not to be missed. The bill for two with wine was roughly €300, which I thought was fairly reasonable for the experience we had.
Text and photographs by The Undercover Food Critic, 12th February, 2019. More Information:  @the_undercover_food_critic
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  • Food Reviews
    • United Kingdom >
      • London >
        • Trullo
        • Céleste
        • CLAW
        • Mercato Metropolitano
        • Coal Office
        • Chin Chin Lab
        • Maltby Street Market
        • The Frog Restaurant
        • Temper - Covent Garden
        • Smoke & Salt
        • Hide
        • Berber & Q
        • Nuala London
        • The Prince London
        • Donostia Restaurant
        • Aquavit London
        • Clipstone Restaurant
        • Zuma London
        • Yauatcha City
        • Luca
        • Temper - Soho
      • Bath >
        • Menu Gordon Jones
        • Henry's
        • De Gustibus
        • The Cosy Club
        • Thoughtful Bakery
        • Olive Tree
        • The Scallop Shell
      • Cornwall >
        • Pengelly's Fishmongers
        • Roly's Fudge
        • Fitzroy
        • Porthpean Beach
        • Harbour Q
      • Rest of the UK >
        • The Hundred of Ashendon
        • Vaults and Garden - Oxford
        • Bulrush - Bristol
        • The Feathered Nest Inn - Cotswolds
        • The Waterside Inn - Bray
        • The Covered Market - Oxford
        • The Cross - Kenilworth
    • USA >
      • New York City >
        • The Timeout Market
        • Au Cheval
        • Los Tacos No.1
        • Rockys Pizzeria
        • Ninth Avenue Diner
        • Chelsea Market
        • Joe's Pizza
        • Around The City
      • Toms River >
        • Sundaes - The Ice Cream Place
        • The Sandcastle Diner
    • Singapore
    • Thailand >
      • Islands
      • Bangkok >
        • Khlong Toei Market
        • Pad Thai Mae Am
        • Jokphochana Restaurant
    • France >
      • Paris >
        • Restaurant AT
        • Marché couvert les Enfants Rouges
        • Café Kitsune
        • Maison Sauvage
        • Mamie Restaurants
        • Il Tre
        • Chateau de Fountainbleu
        • Benedict
        • Pastry in Paris
      • Bordeaux
    • Italy >
      • Modena >
        • Osteria Francescana
      • Bologna
    • Spain >
      • Barcelona >
        • NoBook - Barcelona
        • Mercado De La Boqueria
    • Belgium >
      • Bruges
    • Morocco >
      • Marrakech >
        • Royal Mansour Marrakech
        • Jemaa El-Fnaa
        • Nomad Restaurant
        • Le Jardin
        • Limoni Marrakech
        • Naranj Marrakech
      • Atlas Mountains
    • Netherlands >
      • Amsterdam >
        • Pastries and Cheese
        • Haesje Claes
        • Foodhallen
        • Fiko
        • De Vier Pilaren
        • Tony's Chogolonely
        • Vlaams Friteshuis Vleminckx
        • Febo
        • Bloemenmarkt
  • Recipes
    • Bloody Brownies
    • Apple & Cinnamon Jam
    • Rhubarb & Ginger Jam
    • Strawberry & Mint Jam
    • Pork Dumplings
    • Brandied Cherries
    • Grilled Courgette with Feta Cheese
    • Poached Pear
    • Crumpet with Brown Shrimp
  • Shop
  • About Me
  • Contact